【老书】伶人-《中国人的服饰和习俗图鉴》(1814年出版)

这11111是在摄影技术出现之前的清乾隆时期,英国人画笔下的大清影像;
这些历史水彩画记录了没有相机前的世界;
这本画册第一次为英国人乃至欧洲人呈现了相对真实的中国形象;
让英国人乃至欧洲人看到了这一遥远国度古老而神秘的世态风情。
它是中西方交流史上一页鲜活的见证,也堪称富于人类学意蕴的一套民族志图集。
 


▲伶人《中国人的服饰和习俗图鉴》(1814年)

英文备注译文:

也许,将所附人物称为女性喜剧演员角色中的人物形象比“女性喜剧演员”更合适。因为自从已故皇帝建隆为他的一个次等妻子娶了一个女演员后,女性就被禁止公开登台演出。因此,女性角色现在要么由男孩扮演,要么由宦官扮演。整件衣服应该是中国古代的,实际上与今天的没有太大的不同。

中国的年轻女性在头饰上表现出相当的品味和想象力,头饰上有羽毛、鲜花、珠子以及各种形式的金属饰品。

他们的外衣绣得很华丽,通常是他们自己亲手制作的,他们大部分时间都是这样使用的。如果这个国家没有严格的风俗习惯,把上层阶级的女性限制在自己的公寓里,那么当她们还是婴儿时,她们的脚会不自然地抽筋,这足以阻止她们在国外活动,因为她们很难一瘸一拐地走着:然而,时尚的力量是如此之大,以至于一个脚长得像自然大小的女人会被鄙视,立刻被归类为庸俗之辈。

英文原文:

 It is , perhaps , more proper to call the annexed figure ,the representation of a person in the character of a female comedian than "a female comedian".   as women have been prohibited from appearing publicly on the stage since the late Emperor Kien Lung , took an actress for one of his inferior wives . Female characters are now therefore performed either by boys or eunuchs . The whole dress is supposed to be that of the ancient Chinese ,and indeed is not very different from that of the present day . 

The young ladies of China display considerable taste and fancy in their head-dresses , which are much decrated with feathers , flowers , and beads , as well as metallic ornaments,in great variety of form . 

Their outer garments are richly embroidered , and are generally the work of their own hands , a great part of their time being employed in this way . If it was not a rigid custom of the country , to confine to their apartments the better class of females , the unnatural cramping of their feet ,while infants , is quite sufficient to prevent them from stirring abroad , as it is with some dificulty they are able to hobble along : yet such is the force of fashion , that a lady with her feet of the natural size would be despised, and at once classed among the vulgar .

READING
作者简介:威廉·亚历山大
 

威廉·亚历山大(William Alexander,1767~1816)英国画家。

生于英国肯特郡,父亲是英国坎特美斯顿城马车画匠。

自小受到父亲的熏陶,对绘画产生浓厚兴趣。

15岁时随父亲到伦敦,他于1784年入皇家学院学画,一直学到1792年。易卜逊对其才能倍加赞赏,把他推荐给马戛尔尼勋爵。

他在伦敦皇家艺术学会展览并出版画册和书刊,出版彩色的《中国服饰》及《中国衣冠举止图解》(Picturesque Representations of the Dress and Manners of the Chinese 1814)两书,介绍中国风光,使英国和欧洲人民对中国有了形象的认识,促进西方对中国的了解。

在澳门期间,他画了一幅题为《从外海眺望澳门景色》的水彩画,描绘了18世纪澳门城市风貌。同时也显示了英国对于澳门的觊觎,成为澳门历史和中英关系的重要佐证。 

1808年,转任大英博物馆的印刷画及素描画管理员,直至去世。

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